custom SHOES

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As a proper custom made suit, shirt, and tie create almost the perfect image of a man, a proper pair of shoes perfects the entire ensemble. Whether custom made or not, every man knows the importance of having a good quality pair of shoes to complete his appearance in public. No man would wear sneakers, slippers, or sandals with proper business attire. As such, the custom shoe industry serves not only those with physical (podiatric) requirements, but gentlemen of taste who desire a higher grade and quality of shoe. 

As with custom and bespoke garments, shoes have several components ranging from the leather, corking, stitching, construction, padding, laces, and corresponding polish, oil, or related treatments for longevity. For leather shoes, the best quality leather is one of full-grain cut from the same piece of cowhide. Cork is then needed for the corkbed of the shoe which sits between the last of the shoe (the pattern) and the bottom or "lower" leather. This allows for the ability to protect and walk with the shoe leather over time. The cork is heated and lathered on the exposed last of the shoe, much like shaving cream is placed on the face before shaving. Once it cools, the leather is basted and the stitching is begun. From there, the rest of the shoe is constructed over a series of fittings, which can be as few as one or as many as three, depending on the length and knowledge of the shoemaker and the customer's requests.

The two standard styles of shoe construction are known as Blake construction (single stitched) and Goodyear Welt construction (double stitched). In most situations, a goodyear welted shoe is preferable, unless perhaps a driving moccasin or other lighter shoe is being designed without leather and/or a purely rubberized sole. A goodyear welted shoe also allows for future resoling, whereas a shoe made in blake construction generally does not. 

Regarding design and style, there are several styles of shoe ranging from balmoral (lace-up), loafer, monkstrap, chukka, boot, moccasin, and other specialty styles. There are furthermore several levels of custom options ranging from benchmark (standard) cut shoes, to MTM shoes, to Bespoke shoes, all offering an ascending level off service and quality.

Regarding measurements, they must of course be taken in person. Several different measurements must be taken over and under the ridge of the foot, around, measuring the arch, length, width, and height of the foot, as well as the ankle and possibly the leg above the ankle depending on the style requested. A master shoemaker will baste a "fitting" shoe, sometimes called a "Frankenstein shoe", purely for try-on purposes. Once tried on and any necessary adjustments are made, the actual shoe will then be begun with possibly another one or two additional fittings needed until completion.

House of Hawkes maintains relationships with artisanal shoemakers both in the United States and Europe. The master clothier will take the proper measurements over the course of the order, delivering the try-on shoes and finally the finished shoes for the required fittings. Clients should understand the process can take anywhere between two to four months until the final product is ready for wear, depending on the client's level of request.